Tuesday 29th December - Palmyra

We were up early and off to the museum in order to buy a ticket for entry into the funerary Tower of Elahbel in the Valley of the Tombs and the Hypogeum of the Three Brothers (an underground burial chamber). These are two of the best examples of the various tombs to be found around Palmyra, but are usually locked and only opened three times each day. We thought we would try to beat the rush by getting in early, and in fact managed to be first into the four story tower which was built in AD 103. We could therefore view the pigeon hole like niches for the coffins before the hoards entered (and enter they did - we got to play sardines with several tour groups which wasnít the most fun ever). Steps led up to the higher levels, with space for 300 sarcophagi. The hypogeum is smaller, with similar slots for the coffins and retains portions of its fresco decoration.

As we tried to locate the Japanese Tombs (named after the nationality of their discoverers), we were helpfully directed by a local at the side of the road. We slowed down to say thank you and ended up being invited back to his garden for some tea. I can't imagine anything like that happening in the UK; Syria's a very different place in terms of hospitality and friendliness. He spoke a little English and, with the help of lots of gestures, we spent a pleasant half hour 'chatting' about his family and life. He tried to force some tea on Anne, but after having a tentative sip I had to finish it; Syrians find it difficult to understand someone who doesn't drink tea or coffee (and they aren't the only ones!). When we did find the tombs they were, annoyingly, shut, but you can't have everything.

By this time we were pleased to see that the cloud was starting to break up and we got to enjoy Palmyra in broken sunshine. I wonít bore you with all the details, but Palmyra must rate as one of the most impressive ancient sites in the world, with multiple colonnades leading you from the massive Temple of Bel past the virtually complete theatre, the remains of the agora, Roman baths, Tariff Court, other temple remains and the ornamental Tetrapylon, before heading towards the Valley of the Tombs and the castle to the west.

We spent the day wandering and exploring the ruins, with the only real annoyance being having to fend off the touts who prowl around on motorbikes trying to sell you 'Bedouin' necklaces (don't pay their first price of 300 Syrian pounds as they quickly drop to 100SP), table cloths, 'antique' coins, postcards, etc. Most are good natured, with calls of 'Give me all your money', and you also get plenty of offers of camel rides. They soon leave in search of other prey.

Our legs were starting to ache, but we headed back to the Valley of the Tombs before taking the short cut along a dirt track around the back of the hills and up to the castle. Unfortunately it had started to cloud over so a sunset shot of the ruins will have to wait for another day. SPOT

As dusk fell we headed to the campsite to set up and to utilise their washing machine. I say washing machine, but that is a rather generous description as I think we could have done better with our blue barrel. We were left with a pile of soaking, probably still slightly dirty clothes which we strung up under the roof tent and hoped for the best as we cooked up a meal of pasta and meatballs with chilli fried courgettes (my appetite's definitely back).