Wednesday 28th October

When leaving to buy bread and get some change to pay for our room, we found the town almost deserted, in stark contrast to the bustle of last night.  After eventually finding a bakery we headed back past the main square to see people gathering in their Sunday best, along with a brass band, school children with national flags and a collection of Orthodox priests.  Luckily the Lonely Planet guide came to our rescue, explaining that 28 October 1940 was the day Greeks shouted “No” to the Italian Fascists who demanded surrender without a fight, and the fierce resistance fighting weakened the Nazis’ position as it forced them to move in troops from the Russian Front. We paid our respects along with the Greeks, although not knowing when to cross ourselves during the service probably gave us away as tourists.

The afternoon was spent descending back down to the coast near Nafpaktos through more spectacular gorges, with a brief stop at the monastery outside Prousos.  Again the Greek signs got the better of us as Anne used the gents’ loos, although nobody seemed to notice.  The intimate chapel at Moni Panagias Proussiotissas claims a miracle working icon and seems to attract a steady stream of Greek pilgrims. Unfortunately we were unaware of the icon’s miracle working until after we visited, so didn’t ask it for anything.  Next time maybe. SPOT

The campsite at Dounis beach appeared deserted, although we found two Danish cyclists camping under the canopy of the closed restaurant/bar, so we setup opposite.  I feel that finding open campsites is going to become an increasing issue in Greece, as in France. SPOT