Saturday 9th January - Mujib Nature Reserve to Karak

Hot showers in the morning even though they are solar heated; why can’t Greek and Turkish campsites manage the same?  After breakfast we reluctantly left our chalet by the “sea” and headed back north in a vain search to find a dirt track to shortcut our route out of the valley up to Mukawir.  There were several tracks but unfortunately none went very far, being access roads to the various pockets of cultivation along the wadis and the odd posh house.  We therefore had to continue a few kilometres further along the Dead Sea to the main road up to the Hammamat hot springs, where we hoped to link up with a 4WD track out the other side of the wadi.  Our off-road fun was again scuppered when we discovered that the 4WD track has now been turned into a proper road, part of the development of a luxury spa resort at the hot springs at the base of the valley.  At least it was a picturesque route, up and down the wadi to climb out on the plateau overlooking the Dead Sea.

Outside the small farming village of Mukawir are the ruins of Herod the Great’s castle, Machaerus, where John the Baptist was beheaded.  Little remains of the castle, but it is the setting that is spectacular as the remains sit on top of a 700m hill with magnificent views down two wadis leading to the Dead Sea.  The ruins might have been rubbish, but it was definitely one of our favourite spots in terms of location. SPOT

The next great view came at Wadi Mujib, known as the “Grand Canyon of Jordan”, which stretches 70km from the Desert Highway down to the Dead Sea and is 1km deep and 4km wide where the King’s Highway is forced to descend to the valley floor.  The road takes 18km to switchback down one side, over the dam at the bottom and back up the other side.  The Land Rover took it all in its stride, although we did break for lunch to take in the views. SPOT

Karak was our stop for the night, and we arrived early enough to look around its Crusader castle in the afternoon sun.  Built in 1142 AD as part of the chain of castles throughout the Middle East, it controlled the trade routes to Egypt and Mecca, but was taken after a long siege by Saladin in 1183.  The Mamluks captured the castle 80 years later, strengthening and expanding the fortress.  Today the castle is partially hidden from view by the new town, but once inside the extent of the fortifications and also just how much was packed into the castle becomes evident. 

We explored three levels of tunnels and rooms, and there was more off limits due to restoration work, whilst outside you can enjoy fantastic views over the surrounding countryside.

We checked into the local budget hotel just down from the castle, but not before first being invited to join a local restaurant owner, and something of an entrepreneur, for a cup of tea (he’s in the process of creating two “VIP rooms” for tourists to Karak, ready in two weeks apparently).  We’d chatted to him briefly when we parked earlier, and it was nice to sit for a while and watch the world go by.  Also at the table was a guy waiting for his party of elderly French tourists to emerge from the castle.  He’d lived in Melbourne for five years and did an excellent Australian accent, and says that most of the tours he runs cover the major sights in six days.  I’m glad we have more time.  He also suggested a hotel in Petra that he tends to use, so we’ll check that out in a few days when we get there.

We also met a French guy who “walked” his way around Europe and down through Turkey, Syria and now Jordan; he does hitchhike and sometimes takes public transport, but he still impressed us.