We only managed an hour of Lawrence of Arabia last night before succumbing to sleep, so we both woke early just as the sun started to shine on the roof tent. It was a good couple of hours before we spotted the first tour 4x4 pass beneath us across the plain, but we had a diesel leak to sort out so were delayed in setting off exploring ourselves. Having cleared up the diesel last night from around the side of the engine, when we started the Land Rover this morning it was clear that the leak was coming from the fuel pump, and it was at such a rate that we thought it was best to change it now rather than wait. Out came the tools, and after a couple of dropped bolts and the realisation that I had forgotten to get new olives and nuts for the spare fuel pump we packed (so I had to extract and reuse the old ones) it was changed and we were ready to go.
We started off in search of two of the rock bridges on the south eastern edge of the Wadi Rum Protected Area, but neither the map in the Lonely Planet nor that in the visitors leaflet are particularly accurate, and they often contradict one another. It is also quite tricky to orient yourself on the ground and it doesn’t help that the points of interest don’t have GPS coordinates; I suppose the authorities don’t want to encourage you to go off on your own, preferring you take a guide. Although after a bit of trial and error we managed to find Jebel Burdah and its rock bridge. You are meant to be able to climb up to it from the west side without ropes, but as we arrived from the east we satisfied ourselves with a quick look before taking off into the sand again.
There seemed to be a lack of tour vehicles out today which, whilst giving us peace and quiet, made spotting places of interest harder, although we did manage to find the remains of the house which Lawrence of Arabia is meant to have used during the Desert Revolt (built on the ruins of a Nabataean water cistern).
A quick lunch stop had us seeking shelter from the sun, which can still be fierce even this time of year, and we again said a silent thank you to Anne’s parents for the Engel fridge they bought us as a Christmas present; you cannot beat a cold drink on a hot day. Next we skirted around Jebel Barrah until we found its canyon entrance, which separates the mountain from its neighbour, Jebel Abu Judayda.
We stopped for a quick scramble into the entrance of the canyon, but we were keen to get on and explore further as the real joy of Wadi Rum is just driving around admiring the majestic scenery, which seems to get better around every corner you turn.
We continued north east towards the settlement of Diesh, as the Islington Rascals had passed on the GPS coordinates of a camping location they used the other week. In the end we carried on a bit further east, reluctant to stop enjoying the landscape, and found a secluded spot behind a small hill. SPOT
There was evidence of Bedouin use, with the remains of a fire and plenty of goat poo, but it looks like they haven’t visited for a while so hopefully we’ll have a quiet night. We climbed the hill to catch the last of the sun before setting up camp for the evening.
The desert at night is really quite amazing and we can see why people become seduced by it. The peace and quiet, the stillness and the star filled sky all make you stop and just try to take it in. We’re thankful Jordan is having a mild winter though; it would be a lot less pleasant for us otherwise!
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