As when we entered Syria for the first time, it took longer to leave the neighbouring country than to enter Syria. Maybe it was because it was a Friday, but the passport office on the Jordanian side was packed. Luckily a friendly Saudi called Ali took charge of our passports and pushed to the front, then after a 15 minute wait he started pestering one of the officials until he processed our passports. For the Land Rover we had to hand in our temporary vehicle import certificate and get an exit permit as well as have the carnet stamped.
Ali made sure we knew to wind up our windows before reaching the Syrian border post as there is a disinfectant spray that starts as you drive past; not what you want in your face.
Strangely the Syrian side of the border was extremely quiet; maybe everybody else was stuck the Jordanian side still waiting for their passports to be checked. At Syrian passport arrivals they didn’t even question our lack of visas (which you are meant to have obtained in advance), just asked the duration of our visit and where we were going to stay. We had to head off to the bank to get $52 changed for my visa and $50 for Anne’s, then $168 in total for the vehicle ($100 diesel tax and $68 insurance, which was about half the amount they charged the first time, even though you have to get a month’s minimum cover). Nobody actually checked our vehicle documents on exit, after just a quick glance at our passports we were back into Syria.
It didn’t take us long to become reacquainted with Syrian driving:
- lane markings are only suggestions, there is really no need to pay attention to them;
- driving on the left is perfectly acceptable;
- indicators are merely for decoration;
- use of the horn is mandatory;
- if in doubt, overtake;
- if you want to turn left, make sure you are in the right hand lane (and vice versa);
- never give way at a junction, just keep going (and preferably speed up);
- go at least 5 seconds before the lights change to green.
We had lunch on the road to Bosra, the capital of the Roman Province of Arabia from 106 AD and home to one of the best preserved Roman theatres in existence. Before the Romans the Nabataens had relocated to Bosra from Petra in the 1st century BC, drawn by the fertile soils, and completion of the road from Amman to Damascus meant that it became an important centre of trade and a stop on the caravan and pilgrimage routes throughout the Middle Ages. SPOT
The most impressive “remain” at Bosra is the black basalt theatre which is remarkably complete, and around which the Arabs built impressive fortifications consisting of eight towers and thick walls. To the north are the ruins of the old Roman town, amongst which the inhabitants of modern Bosra live. Roman roads cross the ruins, lined with the remains of columns, with a monumental arch, large public baths, and a nymphaeum (with Corinthian columns) all clearly visible, as well as a Byzantine cathedral and monastery, and two later mosques and a hammam. The afternoon sun was particularly nice, warming the black basalt to compensate for the cold wind.
Back on the road we had a two hour drive to Damascus and it was dark by the time we arrived. We theorised that Damascus in the dark couldn’t be any more difficult to navigate than in daylight; last time we drove into the city it had taken us two hours to find a hotel. We did do a couple of circuits as the road we wanted to go down was blocked off, although had we taken the second right rather than the first we would have made it straight to the Al-Majed Hotel (which the Islington Rascals had recommended; only $25 per night with secure parking for the Land Rover and just 10 minutes walk from the Old City). We have a couple of days in Damascus before we need to move on, no doubt we shall buy things in the souk we neither want nor need...
(Apologies for the delay in posting but we’ve been in the Blogger no-go zone that is Syria for the last week, but we’ve now back in Turkey so can access our blog again.)
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